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A Couple from Philadelphia III

#1 User is offline   kenrexford 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 10:36

x AJxx J10xxx ?xx

LHO opens 1, and partner doubles. RHO bids 1 and you bid 2 (agree? Double would show spades by agreement.) LHO raises to 2, passed to you. Your bid? If the "?" matters, explain.
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#2 User is offline   paulg 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 10:40

I'd bid 2 on the first round and balance with 3 on the second.
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#3 User is offline   keylime 

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  Posted 2010-October-18, 10:40

I'd double in again, now showing hearts. For me, 3 is ok if white/red.
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#4 User is offline   manudude03 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 10:40

I bid 3 if the ? is A,K or Q.

Assuming it's not one of those, i bid 3 now.
Wayne Somerville
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#5 User is offline   pooltuna 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 11:31

kenrexford, on Oct 18 2010, 11:36 AM, said:

x AJxx J10xxx ?xx

LHO opens 1, and partner doubles.  RHO bids 1 and you bid 2 (agree?  Double would show spades by agreement.)  LHO raises to 2, passed to you.  Your bid?  If the "?" matters, explain.

As ten tricks are easier than eleven I would try 2 over 1 now I can pass 2 or try 3. A pretty close choice depending on colours and scoring.
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#6 User is offline   gnasher 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 11:31

cardsharp, on Oct 18 2010, 05:40 PM, said:

I'd bid 2 on the first round and balance with 3 on the second.

So would I, as long as the "?" was the queen or worse. x AJxx J10xxx Kxx looks to me like a 2 cue-bid, assuming that it's forcing only to agreement.

In fact, I think it's better to play 2 in this sequence as like a responsive double - just showing the unbid suits without promising a rebid. Playing that, this would be a 2 bid regardless of the club holding.
... that would still not be conclusive proof, before someone wants to explain that to me as well as if I was a 5 year-old. - gwnn
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#7 User is offline   Fluffy 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 11:54

? won't be the King or ace, else I didn't bid 2, with the queen its close.

Biddign 2 then 3 sounds a bit resulting, but its actually what I'd do, because I know the bidding is somehow coming back at 2 giventhat they have a fit. 3 just shows a 4-4 red hand.
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#8 User is offline   nigel_k 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 12:49

Agree with gnasher. 2 the first time then 3, unless the ? is an ace or king, then I cue bid the first time.
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#9 User is offline   jonottawa 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 13:12

The 2 bid was awful. What was I thinking?
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#10 User is offline   Cascade 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 13:50

Hearts then diamonds for me.

The ? only starts to matter when its an ace.
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#11 User is offline   655321 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 15:59

Enrol me in the 2 then 3 club.
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#12 User is offline   Rodney26 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 17:23

What are the colors?

I like 2 followed by 2NT on the second round, and correcting 3 to 3 if it comes to that. I don't think I'm good enough to x on the second round (I can't risk defending with one trick when partner passed 2) and I think a balancing 2NT has to imply the reds (or the minors) given the lack of a double on the first round.

I don't like the 2/3 plan so much because partner will pick 3 with equal length. With the 2NT plan, partner is going to know you have exactly 4.

The club spot doesn't matter; I actually would prefer to have x versus K.
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#13 User is offline   655321 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 17:47

Rodney26, on Oct 18 2010, 06:23 PM, said:

I don't like the 2/3 plan so much because partner will pick 3 with equal length.

Partner shouldn't play us for 5 hearts on this auction, this is a standard way to compete with exactly 4 hearts and (probably) longer diamonds. If we had 5 hearts we would know we had at least an eight card fit and wouldn't mess around with diamond bids.
That's impossible. No one can give more than one hundred percent. By definition that is the most anyone can give.
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#14 User is offline   Rodney26 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 21:20

655321, on Oct 18 2010, 06:47 PM, said:

Rodney26, on Oct 18 2010, 06:23 PM, said:

I don't like the 2/3 plan so much because partner will pick 3 with equal length.

Partner shouldn't play us for 5 hearts on this auction, this is a standard way to compete with exactly 4 hearts and (probably) longer diamonds. If we had 5 hearts we would know we had at least an eight card fit and wouldn't mess around with diamond bids.

I think it's a huge mistake to big your shorter suits first when competing with spades. I totally disagree with the notion that you would not bid diamonds at the three level if you were 5-5 or something like that. You might still have quite a good hand even though you have passed. Even if you were 4-4 with say a balanced 8 count, you'd want to bid hearts and then diamonds at matchpoints. The diamonds are longer; diamonds is probably a better strain to sustain a tap in if you play it when partner has equal length -- it has to be better to show partner this.

You're bidding hearts first when you're 5-5, 5-4, and 4-4. Let partner in on the news that your minor is longer than your four card heart suit. Forget the whole major thing when it comes to hearts; against spades, hearts is a glorified minor.
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#15 User is offline   ceeb 

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Posted 2010-October-18, 21:53

Agree with Nigel's agreement with Gnasher (not to imply disagreement with the rest of Gnasher).
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#16 User is offline   kenrexford 

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Posted 2010-October-20, 06:03

FWIW, the winning action would have been to pass, but I think the problem is off.

Partner had Axxx Q10x Ax Axxx. I competed in diamond twice (and I think this is the practical course unless 2 shows this diamond imbalance) because of the tap problem and because of an expectation of a likely 3-4 imbalance from partner in the majors. I was given the charge by partner, but I think the double was the cause of the poor result, myself.
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#17 User is offline   gwnn 

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Posted 2010-October-20, 06:35

I like his double very much. I would have bid 2+3 and on this hand it would have worked poorly. That's the way bridge is. Why is the practical course to conceal a 4 card major? I thought you liked bidding even 3 card majors from time to time? :)
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